Dogs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark violently at nothing right in your ear –

Cleansing Solution is a specially formulated solution used to clean, dry, acidify, and deodorize your pet’s ear canal. The cleanser makes it difficult for bacterial or fungal infections to occur. Made in the USA.

For: Cats and Dogs

 

Benefits:

 

•

 

Cleans and deodorizes your pet’s ears, avoiding possible infections

 

•

 

Will not sting or burn

 

•

 

Pleasantly scented

 

•

 

Affordable and gentle enough for daily use

 

How it works:

The ear cleansing solution is an antimicrobial, antiseptic cleanser that comes in a soothing aloe vera gel base. It’s scientifically formulated to clean, dry, deodorize, and acidify the ear canal to restore and maintain your pet's healthy ears.

 

Cautions:

Avoid eye contact. If sensitivity occurs, contact your veterinarian.

 

 

 .

What is this product used for:

  Ear Cleansing Solution is scientifically formulated to clean, dry, deodorize, and acidify the ear canal to restore and maintain the pet's healthy ears.

Availability:

  Ear Cleansing Solution is a non-prescription (OTC) product available in 4 oz and 16 oz bottles.

How this product should be used:

Apply generously into the ear canal. Gently massage the base of the ear. Allow pet to shake head, then clean excess with a cotton ball. For very dirty ears apply 2 to 3 times daily for several days. To keep your pet's ears clean and healthy, use 1 or 2 times weekly or as often as recommended by your veterinarian. Application after swimming is recommended.

What are the side effects:

If redness, irritation, or sensitivity occurs, discontinue use and contact your veterinarian.

What special precautions are there:

This product is for topical use only. Avoid contact with eyes.

In the event of overdose:

Not applicable.

How should I store this product:

Store at controlled room temperature. Keep away from Children

 

Dogs are pack animals. That's part of why they make such great companions - they love to be around the “pack” (that's you!) and they thrive on interaction with others. That's also why so many dogs experience severe stress when you leave them home alone.

That's right, dogs can have separation anxiety just like humans can. And it can become a very serious problem if you don't address it. Many dogs seek ways to vent their frustration and stress and separation anxiety can cause your dog to be destructive.

This energy might be turned towards your home (in the form of chewed shoes, clothing, and furniture) and towards himself (as scratching, chewing, and loss of fur). In fact, sometimes a dog can become so anxious that he causes himself serious harm. Worse still, sometimes bad behavior due to separation anxiety leads to a dog's owners to give up the dog altogether. That's not a fate I want for any pet, or for any owner.

Please don't underestimate how much this can impact your pet. Separation anxiety is a severe psychological ordeal that can cause your dog to misbehave in a number of ways, such as: destroying things around the house or making “messes” while you are gone, and acting frantic and spastic whenever you return home. This is your dog's way of telling you that they are not getting enough social interaction with their “pack”!

As responsible owners, we want to give our four-legged friends as much love as we can…whether we are home or not. Separation anxiety is a problem that can be remedied with some research and effort on your part. As with any situation individual dogs vary and some take longer to respond to training than others, but I recommend at least giving it a shot. Here are some simple yet highly-effective ways to combat separation anxiety in your dog.

First, it's important to teach your dog that your departure is not a sign of bad things. You can try a number of methods to correct their thinking:

Give him a special toy when you're leaving that will occupy his mind while you're gone.

Get your dog used to the idea of you being gone. The more that they witness you leaving and coming back, the less shocking the departure will be. Pretend that you're going to leave, but then come right back. Repeat this several times, rewarding your dog when he remains quiet and calm. Doing this will help your dog learn to stay relaxed when he sees that you're leaving... since he never knows when you're actually leaving! After a while, this relaxed way of dealing with your leaving will become the norm for your dog.

When you do leave, be sure to remain calm yourself. Casually tell your dog goodbye and leave without lots of fussing or fanfare. If you don't treat leaving like a big deal, neither will your dog.

For more help in desensitizing your dog and dealing with his separation anxiety, talk to your vet.

To make success even more likely, the use of an all-natural dog-safe pheromone such as   can be a huge help. Comfort Zone uses natural compounds called pheromones to make your dog feel at ease and comfortable. These pheromones are chemically identical to the ones that mother dogs use to calm their young. When your dog or puppy detects the pheromone, he feels secure and comfortable, reducing his fear reactions and his urge to act out destructively through chewing, excessive barking, or house soiling.   is easy to use - just plug it into the room in which the dog spends most of his time, for constant, calming reassurance.

I really do think that   can help dogs who struggle with separation anxiety. I want to see more dogs live happier lives without anxiety, so I've arranged to make that easier for owners with a special coupon. Receive your $10 off coupon for Comfort Zone just by . It's a great way to help your dog relax and learn not to be anxious when you're gone.

I hope that your vet and  will be able to cure your dog of his separation stress. Stress is not good for anyone, even our four-legged friends. Help your dog and he'll feel much better... and so will you!

Until next time,

Dr. Jon

Sometimes pets stink.  (This doesn't make us love them any less, and they're not “bad pets”; it's just how things are.)  But let's tell it like it is here.  When you've got pets, they come with odor.  There's simply no getting around it.

Urine odor can be especially bad. It's definitely one of the toughest smells to eliminate completely and it always seems like once you clean it, it comes right back. Take the story of this client for example…

Recently one of my clients, a nine-year-old Yorkie named Missy, came in for a check-up.  Missy's owner is a very warm-hearted woman who always had a smile on her faced, but that day she acted very distraught and worried.  It seemed that all of a sudden, Missy had started relieving herself behind the living room sofa!

She was worried that something might be wrong with Missy, and she was right. Diagnostic tests confirmed that Missy had acute cystitis – that's the medical term for an inflamed bladder caused by a bacterial infection. The good news was that Missy would be just fine with antibiotics.

The problem had gone on for several weeks before Missy's mom brought her into the clinic, and in that time Missy had repeatedly soiled in the same spot behind the sofa.  Since the sofa hid the urine stain, it took some real detective work to find out where the smell was coming from.  And once she found it, the repeated urinations had saturated the carpet and padding and penetrated all the way through to the hardwood floor underneath.  The smell was horrible.  And despite her repeated attempts to clean the area, she simply couldn't get the odor to go away.

As dog owners, we all know how bad urine odor can be.  Even if you find the cause of the odor immediately, it is VERY difficult to make it go away.  In fact, some of the "remedies" you try could even make it worse.  (To pets, ammonia smells very similar to urine, so if you clean the area with an ammonia-based cleaner, your dog will go back and soil in the same spot again and again.) And a lot of companies CLAIM that their products get rid of odors but the fact of the matter is, most of them simply do not work because they don't address the chemical structure of urine which makes it so smelly. And since dogs have great senses of smell, they can detect even the tiniest residue and interpret it as a sign that they should use that area as a bathroom…much like Missy did.

Missy's mom asked me if I knew how she could get rid of the smell, and fortunately I did.  I told her about an amazing odor remover called Zero Odor. It's so different from anything else on the market because it works differently from all those other cleaning products.

My staff and I have tried every product on the market searching for a solution.  When we found Zero Odor, we couldn't believe our noses ... this stuff actually worked!  Zero Odor got rid of the urine smell - and it didn't come back.  We all love it and we use it in the clinic all the time.

I told Missy's mom to give Zero Odor a try because she wouldn't be disappointed. When Missy came back for a follow up (she is doing just fine now by the way), her owner was her usual smiling self.  She thanked me over and over for telling her about Zero Odor.  She said it got rid of the odor and now her house smelled fresh and clean again.  She was so happy and I can certainly understand why.  Who wants to live with a smell like that? I know that she AND Missy are definitely a lot happier now!

Zero Odor is an amazing product - there's simply nothing else like it for removing tough odors like dog urine.  So if you haven't tried it yet, you really should.  It eliminates the odor in a pet-safe way; this amazing cleaner will keep your home smelling fresh and clean.  Give it a try.  You won't be disappointed.

I hope this helps you solve your pet odor problems.

Until next time,

Do the words “give the dog a bath” fill you with visions of a soapy, panicked pup crashing around the house? What about when they're finally free and they charge soaking wet onto the bed or the couch (spreading that “wet dog” smell on everything)? Is it bad enough that you find yourself letting your dog go weeks or maybe even months without a bath, just to avoid the stress?

Well, you're not alone.

My friend Margie has a little black and white Terrier named Chips who just HATES baths. Every time she mentions the word "bath," he runs away and hides under the sofa. It takes the entire family to catch and bathe him. Margie even tried SPELLING the word to trick him. "It's time to give Chips a B-A-T-H," she would say. But Chips soon caught on and began running for cover at the very spelling of the word. (Who said dogs aren't smart?)

There are many challenges to washing your dog. Some dogs are scared of the noise or don't like the smell of the soap, and some dogs just plain don't like the feeling of water on their skin. Big dogs can be more of a handful just because of their size. Dogs with thick coats are always more difficult to bathe because it's hard to clean through the fur down to the skin. (If you neglect washing out all the soap your dog could risk skin flakes and irritation.) Bathing your dog in an apartment or condo can be a challenge without an outside hose. These owners must wrangle their pooch in a slippery bathroom or pay a groomer...and that adds up.

No matter how difficult it is to bathe your dog, there’s no way around the fact that your dog does eventually need it. Here’s a good rule of thumb: whenever your dog starts to SMELL like a dog, it is time for a good bath. Regardless of how you do it, your dog needs to be bathed regularly: indoors or out, no matter how messy or unpleasant the job can be, this is something that just has to be done.

We know it's hard, so here are some tips to help make the job easier:

1. Start bathing your dog regularly at a young age to get him used to the process. Remember, puppies should be at least four weeks old before they receive their first bath.

2. Before giving your dog a bath indoors, make sure the house is warm. Turn up the thermostat a few degrees if necessary. Do your prep work and have everything ready ahead of time; you don't want to be scrambling for shampoo or a towel while you're trying to wash the dog.

3. Start by combing and brushing out all mats. Otherwise, the water will turn the mats into solid masses which will require clippers to remove. If your dog's hair is matted with paint, tar or some other sticky material, trim with clippers or soak the area with vegetable or mineral oil for 24 hours. (Consult a professional groomer for particularly difficult tangles.)

4. Prep your dog. Put a drop of mineral oil in their eyes to protect delicate tissues from suds (be sure to hold their head steady so they can' push the dropper into their eyes). Some people use cotton balls in the ears to prevent water from dripping in. If you use cotton balls, make sure they're the right size for your dog's ears; if they're too small, they may slip down the ear canal. Be very gentle with your dog's delicate ears and don't push the cotton down further than can be easily retrieved.

5. Bathe your dog as quickly as possible to make the process less annoying for both of you. Be thorough and do a good cleaning, but whether you're using an indoor tub or shower or washing him in the yard, do it as quickly as possible. Make sure to dry your dog immediately. Use a good pet chamois, lots of big soft towels, or a hair dryer set to a low setting. (If you don't dry him, he will "shake off" all the water on you, your house or anything nearby!)

Finally I want to tell you about a product that can make the actual bathing process MUCH easier, indoors or out. It is an amazing system that will thoroughly wet, wash and rinse your dog in about 5 minutes, penetrating all the way down to the skin to remove dirt and dander. This is worlds better than anything your average hose and bucket can accomplish...and all you do is point the hose. It's called RapidBath® . It uses the same powerful washing technology professional dog-groomers use but it will cost you a lot less money. (In fact, RapidBath costs less than a single visit to the groomer!)

RapidBath is great for indoor baths because it does the job so quickly and it attaches to any shower. This is wonderful in the winter, when neither you nor your dog wants to be cold and wet. If you like to wash your dog outdoors during the warmer months, RapidBath also attaches to any garden hose.

My staff and I really love RapidBath because it makes bath time so much easier for you and your dog. Dogs really like the way the power spray massages their skin, so instead of struggling with you they relax and enjoy it. And the fact that each bath takes only 3 minutes is a lifesaver for those of us with busy schedules. I donated a couple of these to the local dog shelter and they were just thrilled with how easy it was to use RapidBath®!

I hope these tips will help make bathing your dog a lot easier. Your dog will be happier and he will smell nice and clean. With a little preparation and the right tools it can actually be fun for both of you. Everybody wins!

Until next time,


 

When people think of pet emergencies they tend to think of them as a one-time kind of thing.

Something goes wrong you visit the vet, and your pet gets treatment. But that's often not the case. In fact, most incidents require at least one vet visit after the initial emergency visit to make sure that treatment is progressing properly. This can come as a shock to the owner - and especially to their budget.

One example of this from my friends at Trupanion is a Sheltie named Coffee who was hit by a car. Coffee suffered massive internal damage from the impact and required extensive care. After Coffee was discharged from the emergency room his owners thought that the ordeal was mostly over…but they were mistaken. The full course of treatment required several visits to the vet and included surgery as well as aftercare.

Well, the biggest shock of all came when they finally had to pay the bill. All those check-ups really began adding up because the total came to over $8,000. Who would think that a single incident (and a common one too, unfortunately) would have such an involved recovery?

Thankfully Coffee's owners had had the foresight to purchase a Trupanion pet insurance policy for him prior to the incident. This choice was one of the best that they could have made. Even though Coffee required several visits to the vet, Trupanion maintained coverage and reimbursed a significant portion of the bill.

This is how the charges broke down:

Total claim amount: $8,111.63

Deductible applied: -$0.00

Exam fees: -$250.00

10% co-insurance: -$786.16

Trupanion repaid: $7,075.47

This was good news indeed! With that type of reimbursement, Coffee's owners could afford to give him all the time and medical assistance that he needed. Today he is healthy and happy, and his owners are not burdened with a huge bill.

I see pets all the time with serious medical problems that owners just don't have the budget to treat. That is one of the hardest things in this profession. A lack of funds can lead to a decreased quality in care or, even worse, opting for euthanasia when treatment could have helped.

Until next time,

Fleas and ticks are not only a nuisance, they're dangerous.

They're not only irritating but could be life-threatening for you dog… but also for you.

October is one of the worse months of the year for fleas and ticks in this country…

The Number One problem people face when they're forced to deal with dog flea and tick problems is that both insects are nearly impossible to kill.

Have you ever picked a flea or tick off your dog and tried to kill it?

Not an easy task. Or have you ever noticed how badly dogs gnaw and scratch their own flesh trying to tear at those filthy things?

Yes, it certainly seems that fleas are indeed formidable enemies, not only for your dog, but for you, your furniture, you clothing and basically everything else in your home.

So why are fleas and ticks so hard to kill?

Well, fleas are super agile and have amazing jumping skills. Did you know that fleas can jump up to seven inches high and up to 13 inches long?

Given their tiny size, that's quite impressive.

Oh, yeah… and did I forget to mention… they reproduce way more than rabbits! Did you know a single female flea lays approximately 2,000 eggs in her lifetime? Multiply that number by that of her children's children. Wow!

But fleas and ticks are even worse than just annoying insects. They also transmit diseases.

When your dog scratches herself, she could be sending dander, flea eggs and particles airborne, which could cause symptoms in her owner ranging from itchy, red bumps to hay-fever-like conditions. Fleas have also been responsible for a strain of Typhus, tapeworms and even the deadly Bubonic Plague (yes, the Bubonic Plague is a disease circulating mainly among small rodents and their fleas!).

Ticks are responsible for Rocky Mountain Fever, Lyme Disease and more. If you live in a woody, grassy or even just a brushy area and your dog ever goes outside, you really have to worry about those nasty little insects and their diseases as well.

 

So, please keep your dog on flea and tick medication year round (especially in states with warm climates).

Flea Control

 

It is best to prevent fleas than to treat active infestations.

Repeat treatments are necessary to kill new fleas that jump on your pet and to kill the different stages of the flea as they develop in your home and yard.

For monthly products, keep a reminder system. Try giving medications the same day of every month. Place the reminder in your calendar or on your refrigerator.

If your pet's a swimmer or bathed frequently, consider "waterproof" products or "water-resistant" products

Most veterinarians recommend year-round flea prevention.

Some flea control products are combined with heartworm prevention medications, tick control medications, and other gastrointestinal parasite control. Talk to your vet about which product might be best for your pet.

 

Is your dog a snuggler?

Lots of dogs are. Each dog's personality is different but some of them are huge cuddle bugs. They just love their people and need to be around their humans all the time. Affectionate dogs such as these can be a little overwhelming at first but many owners grow to love how attached their pets are.

What makes one dog standoffish and another dog extremely affectionate? The exact reason is unknown, but like all canine behaviors it probably has a lot to do with your dog's genetic make-up as well as their socialization skills. From an early age, your dog's genes (including his breed) and socialization skills (both pet-to-pet and pet-to-human) have an impact on his behavior. This makes sense when you think about people - no two are alike. Some people like to cuddle and others don't. Some families and cultures are also more "touchy-feely" than others. Since you function as part of your dog's "family," or pack, you determine what your dog is able to get away with.

Your dog might also cuddle with you or with his toys because it is a source of both bonding and comfort. Puppies cuddled with their mothers and littermates for warmth, and undoubtedly this gave them comfort. Even as adults cuddling can provide feelings of safety and reassurance. Dogs that are submissive are often more apt to cuddle and be near their pack leader

It's not easy to pick a good dog toy. How many times have your purchased a dog toy that seemed really great only to find that your dog couldn't care less about it? Even worse, what about buying one that they totally destroy within a matter of hours...and you can't get a refund? Seriously, buying the right dog toy should be fun but it can feel like a HUGE chore.

I care about your dog and I want to help you find the best toys for them. To do that I sometimes ask my colleagues for their recommendations so I can pass them along. One person I really trust to give me the straight answers on dog toys is my friend Dr. Debra and her staff at Pet Product Advisor. They're always are hard at work testing hundreds of pet products and deciding which ones to carry. (Really! If you could go in to Dr. Debra's garage it looks like half science laboratory and half pet product warehouse. It's a good thing she's crazy about pets.) She washes toys, runs over toys, tries to tear toys with work bench clamps, checks for lead...you name it.

Dr. Debra told me that this was one of the best toys she had seen. When she started hearing about this toy she just had to share the customer stories with me. Here's one comment she received:

I volunteer at a no-kill shelter and was looking for a toy that would keep the attention of the dogs. This talking ball has survived being submersed in water buckets, doggy slobber and endless chewing. So far, so good. Our dogs have an affinity for destroying "indestructible" toys within minutes. The talking ball has lasted two weeks! I am very impressed!

Thank you. - Bert, Ontario, CA

Well, Dr. Debra gave me one to try out and I have to say, the all-new X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball is really something! You wouldn't believe how much fun can come out of two rubber tires and a noisemaker; it's incredible! The X-Tire contains two molded rubber PVC tires with a hole in the center that contains a Babble Ball (another customer favorite). The Babble Ball produces high quality and authentic-sounding animal noises - straight from the farm and the jungle! 

The X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball gives you TWO toys in ONE!

In case you haven't seen it yet, here's a short clip of a dog with his new X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball:

Doesn't that look like a grand time? Imagine the fun your dog will have!  You're both in for a real treat.

What makes the X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball so appealing is this... The sensitive motion-activated toy "wakes up" with this slightest movement or sniff from your dog. That sets off a delightful dialog that makes your dog believe the toy is alive!

The appealing animal sounds talk to your dog as if they are right there playing with him or her. And the more they play, the more the animals "talk"!  You just can't get that type of interactive play from a regular ball or "squeaky" toy that you can pick up anywhere. It's like giving your dog their own personal zoo right in your home. There's so much fun in a small package that you have to see it to believe it.

Since I'm always thinking about the safety of your pets, I wanted to throw in one quick note. When playing with your dog, keep in mind that the X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball  isn't designed to be an unsupervised chew toy. As with any new toy, you always want to supervise your pet with a new toy to watch how they interact. If you have an aggressive chewer, please don't leave him or her with this toy or any other toy not designed for chewing.

Now you can stop spending money on toys that disappoint you and your dog. Give the all-new X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball a home with your dog and get ready for non-stop laughs and good times - for your both.

Until next time,

P.S. The X-Tire Animal Sounds Ball promises to excite and entertain even the most sedentary dogs, providing much-needed mental stimulation and exercise. As we always say, a tired dog is a well-behaved dog!

P.P.S. Because the Ball  is motion-activated, it's a great toy for most sight-impaired dogs too. They deserve to have fun!

 

The Danger of Driving with Dogs

 

Dogs love to go for car rides. For many dogs, their favorite words are "bye-bye". I've seen dogs jump, prance, smile and bark with delight at the thought of a car ride. How many times have you seen dogs hanging out the car window? Or on the owners lap looking as happy as can be?

Yes, going for a ride in the car can be fun, but driving with dogs can also be very dangerous to both you and your dog. I recently talked to some owners that were in an accident – caused by their dog – in which they were injured, the car they hit had some severe injuries and their dog was killed. How tragic!

There are some very common dangers and causes of injuries that can be prevented – and if you understand them, it will help keep you and your dog safe.

1. Jumpers – Many dogs love to hang out windows and watch what goes by, enjoying the feel of the air in their hair. Some dogs will jump out of an open car window, even though their owners would have sworn they would never do that. One day – for some reason – something extra excites them and out they go. I've seen everything from mild injuries and abrasions to fractures and even death resulting from dogs jumping into traffic and immediately being hit by another car. For every dog that jumps, the owners say the same thing. "He always rides like that – and never jumped before."


2. Air and eye injuries – Some dogs that hang their head out of an open car window can obtain injures when things

that are flying in the air hit their head or eyes. When these objects hit the dog's eyes it can cause corneal ulcers and injuries.

3.Airbags – Dogs can be severely (even fatally) injured by airbag deployment. For this reason, many dog seats and harnesses are created for use in the back seat.

4.Distraction – Dogs distract drivers. I've seen excited dogs on their owner's lap moving back and forth from the passenger window to the drivers' window. For one reason or another, they distract their drivers causing an accident. The driver looks at their dog to see what they are doing and wham!

5.Slowed reaction time – With a dog on your lap, your ability to drive and react quickly is impaired. Drivers are often unable to make a quick turn with their dog on their lap. This is a common cause of accidents.

6.Injury in crashes – Pets can be severely injured in crashes and, when they are unrestrained, they can run out of the car and suffer even more injuries. Some have even run away.

7.Foot petal problems – Some dogs (and cats) love to get down by the floor, under the seat or near the foot petals. I've seen several cases where this caused crashes.


Pets riding unrestrained in a vehicle may be cute and fun – until an accident happens. Less than 20% of dog owners use some sort of harness or seat belt to restrain their dog while in a car.

Seatbelts and car seats are especially made to keep dogs safe. We recommend that all dogs be restrained in the back seat during car rides. All pets should have a microchip as well in case they get free during a car ride. Windows should be kept at a lowered point so the dog can get air but can not get their head completely out the window – thus preventing eye injuries and any risk of jumping.

Keep your dog safe.

Itch, Itch, Itch – When Your Dog Can't Stop Scratching


If your dog spends a large portion of his time scratching, he may have a condition known as pruritus, or itching, an unpleasant sensation that causes your dog to scratch or bite at himself. It is caused by chemical reactions that occur in the skin and stimulate the nerves, causing the brain to feel the itch. In fact, the act of scratching itself may stimulate these inflammatory reactions in the skin and make the condition worse. Any skin condition that causes inflammation can cause pruritus.

How pruritis affects your dog's health depends on the degree of the pruritus. Mild pruritus may hardly have any effect at all. However, severe pruritis leads to intense scratching, which may result in painful skin lesions that may become infected. Your dog will often whimper or cry out and may have trouble sleeping.

Every dog has a threshold of pruritis or an "itch threshold." This is the point where all of the sources of itching finally add up to enough irritation to cause the irresistible urge to scratch. Scratching begins when the stimulation exceeds that threshold. For example, a dog with a mild allergy to house dust mites may be below the threshold but may begin to scratch severely when he becomes infested with fleas.

Pruritus is associated with other skin diseases, including secondary bacterial skin infections (pyoderma) and secondary yeast infections. But it is the main symptom of skin conditions like allergies and skin parasites

How pruritis affects your dog's health depends on the degree of the pruritus. Mild pruritus may hardly have any effect at all. However, severe pruritis leads to intense scratching, which may result in painful skin lesions that may become infected. Your dog will often whimper or cry out and may have trouble sleeping.

Every dog has a threshold of pruritis or an "itch threshold." This is the point where all of the sources of itching finally add up to enough irritation to cause the irresistible urge to scratch. Scratching begins when the stimulation exceeds that threshold. For example, a dog with a mild allergy to house dust mites may be below the threshold but may begin to scratch severely when he becomes infested with fleas.

Pruritus is associated with other skin diseases, including secondary bacterial skin infections (pyoderma) and secondary yeast infections. But it is the main symptom of skin conditions like allergies and skin parasites.

Allergic Skin Diseases

• Flea allergy is the most common allergic skin disease in the United States. Dogs with flea allergy tend to scratch their back ends leading to lesions on the rump, hind legs, tail and belly. Since it takes just one flea to make the dog react, the presence of fleas on the dog may be minimal to absent.

• Atopy is a reaction to airborne allergens such as pollens, house dust, house dust mites and molds. Dogs with atopy tend to scratch their ears and face and tend to chew and lick at their feet. The condition is often worse during summer months when pollen and mold levels are increased.

• Food allergy is a reaction to one or more ingredients in their food. These dogs tend to scratch in the same places as those with atopy.

• Insect allergies (insect bite hypersensitivity) are less common than other allergies. Lesions are evident in areas where insects such as bees are likely to bite (bridge of nose, ears).

• Contact allergy is a reaction to an irritant that touches the skin, often the belly or chest. Allergies of this type are rare.

Parasitic Skin Diseases

• Scabies is an intensely pruritic skin condition caused by the sarcoptic mange mite. Lesions are seen on the ears, elbows and hocks (ankles).

• Demodectic mange is caused by the demodex mite. This is usually a disease of young dogs and causes dramatic hair loss and dermatitis. This disease is often not pruritic, but can lead to a secondary bacterial infection of the skin (pyoderma), which may be itchy.

• Fleas can cause pruritus in dogs that are not flea allergic, although the degree of pruritus is less severe.

• Cheyletiellosis is an itchy skin condition caused by the cheyletiella mite. Lesions are usually most dramatic along the top of the back. These mites are sometimes visible to the naked eye as small, moving, white specks, hence the name "walking dandruff mite".

• Ear mites cause itching of the ears in dogs and can sometimes cause itching elsewhere on the body.

• Lice are small insects that are easily seen with the naked eye that can cause pruritus.

Other Causes

•Acute moist dermatitis, also known as hot spots, are localized, moist, reddened bacterial infections of the skin. These can be very itchy, causing the dog to lick or chew the area. This further damages the skin, and creates a cycle of itching, scratching and chewing.

•Pyoderma is an infection of the skin that can be quite pruritic. Pyoderma can be superficial or deep and is often secondary to another skin disease.

•Ear infection, otitis, can cause significant itching of the head. Affected dogs will shake their heads and scratch at their ears.

What To Watch For

 

• Scratching or biting. If this continues beyond one day and leads to lesions such as hair loss, reddening of the skin and obvious pain or discomfort, have your dog evaluated by your veterinarian.

• Chronic licking of the feet. This is also a symptom of pruritus.

Veterinary Care

The key to treating pruritis is to identify and treat the underlying cause. Your veterinarian may want to perform some diagnostic tests to determine the cause. The condition may be relieved with medication but the itching often recurs after the medication is finished.

At Home Care

At home your care will be aimed at preventing pruritis by keeping your dog's coat clean and brushed free of mats. Consult with your veterinarian to establish a complete flea control program. If your dog is being treated for pruritis, administer all prescribed medication and follow all your veterinarian's instructions.

 

Diabetes in Dogs

 

Diabetes mellitus (DM) is a chronic condition in which a deficiency of the hormone insulin impairs the body's ability to metabolize sugar. It is one of the most common endocrine (hormonal) diseases of dogs.

There are two types of diabetes mellitus in dogs. Type I DM occurs when the body does not produce enough insulin. This can be the result of destruction of the cells in the pancreas that normally produce insulin. This form does not produce enough insulin and requires insulin injections to control the disease. Type II DM occurs when enough insulin is produced but something interferes with its ability to be utilized by the body. Dogs nearly always (99%) have the type I variety.

Diabetes mellitus usually affects middle-aged to older dogs of either sex, however it is most common in female dogs (twice as common in females as in males). The peak age seen in dogs is 7 to 9 years. Juvenile-onset diabetes may occur in dogs less than 1 year of age. . Any breed can be affected. Breeds at increased risk for diabetes mellitus include the Australian terrier, Samoyed, Schnauzer (miniature and standard), Bichon frise, Cairn terrier, Keeshond, Spitz, Fox terrier and the Poodle (miniature and standard).

Diabetes mellitus leads to an inability of the tissue to utilize glucose. Disease occurs from high blood sugar levels, inadequate delivery of sugar to the tissues and changes in the body metabolism.

Risk factors for diabetes mellitus include obesity, recurring pancreatitis, Cushing's disease, and drugs such as glucocorticoids and progestagens that antagonize insulin.

 

Diabetes Insipidus

Section: Overview

Diabetes insipidus (DI) is a metabolic disorder characterized by excessive, extreme urination, and accompanied by undue thirst. It is either caused by impaired production of a hormone called ADH (anti-diuretic hormone) from the brain (central DI), or an impaired ability of the kidney to respond properly to the ADH (nephrogenic DI).

Central DI can occur if there is damage to the part of the brain that makes the ADH. Trauma or cancer would be potential causes of this kind of damage. Most cases are "idiopathic"; in other words, there is no known cause.

Nephrogenic (originating from the kidneys) DI is a very rare congenital

disorder that also occurs for no known reason.

There is no apparent age, gender, or breed predilection for DI. Most cases occur in dogs; cats are rarely affected. As long as dogs with DI have unlimited access to water and are in an environment where excessive urination is not a problem, most dogs do fine and have an excellent life expectancy.

What to Watch For

• Severe, excessive urination

• Insatiable desire to drink water

• Stupor, disorientation, lack of coordination, or seizures if a brain tumor is the primary cause

Diagnosis

Diagnostic tests are needed to rule out other common causes of excessive thirst and urination, including:

• Complete medical history and physical examination

• Complete blood count

• Serum biochemistry panel

• Urinalysis

• X-rays or ultrasound

• Bile acid test

• Urine culture

• Tests of the adrenal gland

• Thyroid hormone test

• Modified water deprivation test is the most important test for confirming a diagnosis of diabetes insipidus

Treatment

If therapy is necessary, treatment for diabetes insipidus may include the following:

• Desmopressin acetate

• Chlorpropamide

• Thiazide diuretics

• Salt restriction

Home Care and Prevention

Give medications as directed and make absolutely certain the dog has constant access to water.

As most cases of central DI are of unknown cause, that is idiopathic, there is no specific preventative care. Dogs with congenital nephrogenic DI should not be bred in case there is a genetic predisposition to the disorder.