Any dog can get "chew-happy" at one point or another and just go on a chewing spree. Sometimes you can even catch them chewing on strange things that might make their owners think "Gosh, chewing on that can't possibly taste good!"

Like chewing on dirty laundry. Yes, dirty laundry!

One of my employees has a well behaved dog except when the laundry hamper is within reach. Time and time again he sneaks out dirty underwear - only those! -and chews them to shreds. How frustrating!

So, are some breeds more aggressive chewers?

It's a question that constantly comes up and one that inspires a lot of debate among dog lovers.

Some say that aggressive chewers come in all shapes and sizes. Others argue that due to ancestry or training certain breeds are the top of the list; they’re notorious for ripping just about any object in their mouth to shreds! Yet others claim that young, teething pups can out-chew an adult dog regardless of breed.

I’ve polled my readers and clients, and here are a few breeds many dog owners believe to be aggressive chewers:

1. Rottweilers

2. German Shepherds

3. Dachshunds

4. Dobermans

5. Labrador Retrievers

6. Pit Bulls

7. Beagles

8. Chihuahuas

9. Jack Russell Terriers

10. Chow Chows

If your dog is an aggressive chewer it's nearly impossible to find dog toys that will stand up to his teeth. Like most owners you've probably bought him plenty of toys that claim to be strong, only to find that your dog has chewed them to bits in just minutes. I know how aggravating this can be because I get a lot of emails on this subject.

You keep buying new toys so your dog will have some fun things to play with, but he destroys them all. It becomes an endless cycle and soon you feel like you're simply throwing your money away. (One friend of mine claims that she's going to just start giving her dog money because it "cuts out the middle man.")

Dealing with Dog Bites: Statistics, Treatments, and Tips for Avoiding Bites Altogether

Some of the most distressing but common injuries that I treat are those resulting from a dog’s bite. Some interesting statistics on dog bites:

■Every 40 seconds, someone in the United States seeks medical attention for a dog bite.

■Dog bites result in approximately 44,000 facial injuries in US hospitals each year.

■Unfortunately, children comprise 60% of the dog bite victims, and the most severe injuries occur in children less than 10 years of age.

■The face is the most frequent target, most often the lips, nose, and cheeks.

■Mail carriers are an exception, in that almost all of their dog bite injuries involve the lower extremities.

■Dog bites cause an average of 18 deaths a year.

■$165 million is spent in the United States for the estimated 800,000 dog bite related injuries requiring treatment each year.

When and where do most dog bites occur?

I see a higher number of these injuries each fall and spring; I think that this is from the change in activity level with the change in weather. Often dog bite injuries are by pet dogs known to the bitten person. They generally occur close to dog’s home or home of the bitten person. In one study of an urban emergency room of children less than 4 years old, 90% were bitten at home and 47% were bitten by their own dog. Even when broadly defining provocation, less than half of all injuries are provoked.

What types of dogs are most likely to bite?

Puppies are more likely to bite than an adult dog. While any dog can bite, the top biting breeds include: Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, German Shepherds, Huskies, Doberman Pinschers and Chow Chows. The pit bull terrier is a common cause of urban dog bite injuries in children; in this particular situation, the dog is often freely roaming, and more frequently attacks unprovoked.

What are the physical and emotional impacts of dog bites, and how are bite wounds treated?

Bites from dogs may cause punctures, cuts, abrasions, tissue loss or avulsion, crushing wounds or even fractured bones. These wounds result in permanent, possibly disfiguring scars. Patients with dog bites first require treatment to prevent infection, tetanus, and possibly rabies. The dog may be quarantined for observation of possible latent rabies. Repair of the wounds may require simple closure, removal of injured tissue, and reconstructive surgery. Underlying nerve, tendon or bone injuries may need repair. Sometimes completely severed tissue can be replaced as a graft or reattached with microsurgical repair of small blood vessels. Occasionally, a plastic surgeon may have to move other tissue into the defect to close or recreate the disfigured feature. Such reconstruction may need multiple operations over several years. Scars are an unavoidable and permanent result of tissue injury. Scars may be improved but never completely removed. Once bitten, a person will frequently become very nervous of dogs. Parents often suffer from shame and guilt when their child is injured.

Are poinsettia plants toxic? I was thinking about getting it for a friend that has several cats and thought I'd ask before I did.


! I'm glad you wanted to check on the toxicity before just buying a plant. Good thinking!

The Poinsettia (Euphorbia) can cause irritation to the mouth and stomach and sometimes vomiting. It has a low level of toxicity and is overrated as a toxic plant. Many people consider it basically non-toxic.

It is recommended to keep the plant out of the reach of the cats. I think it would be okay to buy it if the owner can keep it out of the reach of her kitties. You can ask her if they bother plants like that or consider one of the artificial poinsettias that are beautiful. Some look very real.

 

10 Steps for a Dog Safe Holiday Tree



The day after Thanksgiving kicks off the Christmas holiday season, and millions of homes sport either real or faux trees – glittering towers of beauty that can pose a threat to your pets. Before you put the tree up, take a few moments to go over some safety precautions.


1. Choose the Right Spot. Pick an area where the tree can be enjoyed by the family but so much in the center activity that it can be easily knocked over. An area by the wall or in a corner is ideal and out of the traffic flow pattern of the house. Try to place the tree near an outlet so you don't have to run electrical cords long distances.

2. Prepare the Area. Lay down plastic sheeting or buy a "tree bag." This is an extra large trash bag used for live trees. Center the tree on the bag. When the season is over and you have removed the tree ornaments, pull the bag over the tree. This will catch the pine needles as they fall from the tree – and prevent them from being chewed or swallowed by your pet.

3. Secure the Tree. Many trees have been sent swaying by a rambunctious dog or puppy. Dogs can knock over a tree by rubbing against or playing under it. Pet can be injured if the trees or ornaments fall and break. You can place the tree in a corner and secure it from two sides to small hooks in the walls. Another trick is to place a small hook in the ceiling above the tree and use clear fishing line from the top of the tree to the hook. Apply gentle tension and tie. The clear line is invisible.

4. Hide the Cords. Electrical cords are a grave danger to pets – especially puppies and that tend to chew on anything. Cords can cause electrocution and serious injury or even death. Secure the cords by positioning them higher than the pet can reach or hiding them with special covers.

5. No Hooks. Check your ornaments and replace hooks with a loop of string tied in a knot. Ornaments often fall from the tree and pets may catch their mouths on or swallow the hooks.

6. Choose Safe Ornaments. There is no perfectly pet-safe bulb, as any ornament can be ingested and cause an intestinal obstruction. Pet "safer" bulbs would be plastic or wood. Glass bulbs on the lower limbs can be especially dangerous. If broken, pets can step on them and cut their feet or worse yet – treat the bulbs like a ball and chew on them causing them to break, resulting in mouth or throat trauma and bleeding. Many pet owners have learned the hard way not to place any ornaments on the lower limbs. Ornaments made of food may be especially attractive to pets.

7. Ribbons. Big red velvet ribbons are a lovely addition and may replace tinsel and garland that can be eaten dogs and caught in their intestine. Cats are especially attracted to the bright shiny tinsel and should really be avoided in households with cats. Ingestion of this material can cause intestinal obstruction that may require surgery.

8. Presents. Dogs love to investigate and most don't understand that the presents are not meant to be opened before Christmas Day. Decorative ribbons and string can be ingested, gifts can be destroyed by a playful pet. Consider storing the presents in a safe area until right before the holiday or make sure your pet is always supervised while investigating and searching for his special gift.

9. Sweep and Water. Sweep up the pine needles. Ingestion of needles can cause vomiting and gastric irritation. Keep the tree watered and only turn the lights on when you are at home. Risk of fire is always there with a live tree. Do not allow your pet access to the tree water to drink.

10. Supervise. The safest thing to do is to allow your pet access to the tree only when supervised. Pets that continue to want to bother the tree should be encouraged – using positive reinforcement – to leave it alone. Bitter apple can be sprayed on low branches for persistent chewers.




 

Home Care for the Dog with Diarrhea



Diarrhea is a common problem seen in veterinary clinics. In fact, it is one of the most common reasons people take their dog to the vet.


What Is Diarrhea?

Diarrhea is the act of having abnormally loose or liquid stools. This can also be associated with an increased frequency of bowel movements. Some dogs will have a large amount of liquid or abnormally loose stools once and others will have semi-formed stools frequently with straining.

What Causes Diarrhea?

Diarrhea results from excessive water content in the feces and it is an important sign of intestinal disease in dogs.

Diarrhea can be a symptom of many different conditions. It can be caused a number of problems including:

• A change in the dog's food

• Eating garbage or food that does not agree with their system

• Eating indigestible objects

• Infectious agents including bacterial, viral or parasites

• Systemic problems such as pancreatitis, kidney disease or liver disease

-

It can affect your dog by causing extreme fluid loss, which leads to dehydration, electrolyte disturbances, and/or acid-base imbalances.


Home Treatment of Diarrhea

Specific treatments of diarrhea are dependent on the cause. Here is the general approach to dealing with a dog with acute diarrhea:

• If your pet has diarrhea once then has a normal bowel movement without further diarrhea or has a normal bowel movement and is acting playful, then the problem may resolve on its own.

• If you can identify it, always eliminate any predisposing cause such as exposure to trash, abrupt change in diet and eating plants.

If your dog has diarrhea and vomiting (gastroenteritis), we recommend that you see your veterinarian – don't attempt home care.

• If diarrhea occurs several times and you cannot take your dog to your veterinarian (which is recommended), then you may try the following:

- Administer only prescribed medications by your veterinarian.

- Stop feeding your dog for the first 12 to 24 hours.

- If there is no vomiting, provide plenty of fresh clean water or oral rehydrating solutions to help prevent dehydration.

- Temporarily change the diet to something bland. Bland diets can be made at home or prescription type diets can be obtained from your veterinarian. A bland digestible diet such as: Hill's prescription diet i/d, Iams Recovery Diet, Provision EN or Waltham Low Fat is usually recommended. You can make a homemade diet of boiled rice or potatoes (as the carbohydrate source) and lean hamburger, skinless chicken or low-fat cottage cheese (as the protein source). Feed small amounts at a time. Don't over feed as it may induce vomiting. Feed a meatball size portion and if there is no vomiting for a full hour, offer a small amount more. Give small amounts frequently – every 3 to 4 hours for the first day. You can gradually increase the amount and decrease the frequency as your dog tolerates.

- Feed a bland diet for 2 days.

- Then gradually return to regular dog food over the next day or two. At first, mix in a little of your dog's food into the bland diet. Feed that for one meal. Then feed a 50/50 mix for one meal. Then feed ¾ dog food and ¼ bland diet for a meal. Then feed your dog's regular food.

- Leash-walk your pet to allow observation of bowel movements while watching for normal urinations and any vomiting that may occur otherwise without you knowing.

- Observe your dog's general activity and appetite. Watch closely for the presence of blood in the stool, worsening of signs or the onset of vomiting.

- Have your pet examined by your veterinarian if you have any questions or concerns.

- Some veterinarians recommend Pepto-Bismol or Kaopectate (for dogs only!) ® The active ingredients are generally subsalicylate and Bismuth. Two tablespoons of Pepto-Bismol contain almost as much salicylate as one aspirin tablet (which is toxic to cats). Do NOT give cats Pepto-bismol or Kaopectate! The subsalicylate, an aspirin-like compound, can decrease diarrhea caused by intestinal infections. The bismuth agent is a chalk-like compound designed to coat the lining of the stomach and intestines. This helps some pets with diarrhea. The typical dose administered to dogs amounts to approximately two teaspoons (10 ml total) per 10 pounds per day, ideally split between two to four doses. This be found at most pharmacies and does not require a prescription. It is often used for one to two days. DO NOT USE IN CATS.

- Medication should never be administered without first consulting your veterinarian. Please do not administer to cats without first consulting with a veterinarian to avoid toxicity.

- This is important! If the diarrhea continues at any time or the onset of other symptoms are noted, call your veterinarian promptly. If your pet is not eating, starts vomiting, acts lethargic, has continued diarrhea or any other physical abnormalities mentioned above, it is important to see your veterinarian. Your pet needs the professional care your veterinarian can provide. If your pet is having the clinical signs mentioned above, expect your veterinarian to perform some diagnostic tests and make treatment recommendations. Recommendations will be dependent upon the severity and nature of the clinical signs.

When Is Diarrhea an Emergency?


If the diarrhea continues after your pet eats or if your pet acts lethargic, doesn't want to eat and/or starts vomiting, then medical attention is warranted. Please see your veterinarian!


 

Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies in Cats

 

Cats, like children, are curious animals and love to play. However, they also like to chew on their toys and, as a result, sometimes swallow harmful objects that can affect their health. It is important that you protect your kitty from ingesting dangerous foreign bodies.

A gastrointestinal foreign body refers to any material other than food that is eaten and that results in serious digestive problems. Foreign bodies can become lodged in the stomach and intestines creating an obstruction. Commonly ingested non-food items include toys, string, clothing and plastic. In fact, any household object your cat chews on can become a foreign body problem.

Cats of any age are susceptible to developing foreign body problems but this is most commonly seen in young cats less than 2 years of age. These youngsters are naturally curious and enjoy playing. Frequently, cats will play with string and yarn and unintentionally ingest it.


Although some smaller foreign bodies can pass through the gut without getting stuck and causing a problem, the larger pieces, and especially string, can result in serious gastrointestinal complications.

What You Should Watch for

 

Cats that have ingested a foreign object usually show signs of gastrointestinal upset. If your cat refuses to eat, begins vomiting, drooling or has abnormal bowel movements, contact your veterinarian. In some instances, you may notice a foreign object, such as a string, protruding from the rectum. Do not try to pull the object out - consult your vet.

Diagnosing a Foreign Body

Your veterinarian will begin by obtaining a complete and thorough medical history, including recent exposure or known chewing on foreign material. A physical examination will follow. If a foreign body is suspected, abdominal radiographs (x-rays) will be recommended. Most foreign objects can be confirmed on plain X-rays but a few elusive ones may require a dye material like barium in order for the foreign object to be diagnosed.

Since removal of most foreign bodies requires surgery, once a gastrointestinal foreign body is diagnosed, your veterinarian may order blood tests to assess the general health of your cat.

Treatment

Most cats with a gastrointestinal foreign body obstruction have been vomiting or not eating for a period of time. This leads to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. Your veterinarian will most likely want to hospitalize your cat and administer intravenous fluids prior to anesthesia. Once your cat is more stable, s/he will be anesthetized and prepared for surgery.

After sedation, your cat will have his mid abdomen shaved. An incision will be made along the center of the abdomen and the stomach and intestines examined for foreign material or obstructions. After localizing the foreign material, a small incision will be made in the stomach and/or intestine and the foreign material removed. In severe obstructions, multiple incisions may have to be made to remove the entire foreign object. This is especially true for string removal. If portions of the intestine have been damaged, sections of the intestine may need to be removed.

After the foreign body is removed, your veterinarian will suture the incision in the stomach and/or intestine as well as the body wall and skin.

After removal of the foreign material, your cat will continue to receive intravenous fluids until he is able to eat and drink without vomiting. Your veterinarian may prescribe medication for pain such as butorphanol as well as antibiotics to prevent infection.

Based on the severity of intestinal damage, your cat may be hospitalized for 2 to 5 days.

Surgical removal of foreign objects is a common procedure in veterinary medicine. During the surgery the intestines, as well as other abdominal organs, can be examined for damage or illness. Unfortunately, every surgery has negative aspects such as post-operative pain, potentially long hospital stays and possible infection. Surgery is the only treatment for intestinal obstruction so your veterinarian will take steps to either treat for or prevent some of the surgical complications.

At Home Care

Once your cat is able to eat and drink without vomiting, your veterinarian will send him home. Be sure to give all medication as prescribed by your veterinarian and periodically check the incision.

Sutures are generally removed in 7 to 10 days. Until then, do not allow your cat to lick or chew at the sutures – an Elizabethan collar may be necessary. You should also watch the incision for swelling or discharge. Your cat will need to be fed a bland diet for 2 to 3 days and gradually returned to a normal diet. Baby food and prescription bland diets are typically recommended. Contact your veterinarian if your cat refuses to eat or begins vomiting.

Preventative Care

The best way to prevent your cat from ingesting foreign bodies is to prevent access to objects that could be swallowed. Keep dangerous objects away from your kitty and allow him to chew only on toys that cannot be swallowed. Never let him play with string.

If you suspect that your cat may have ingested something that may not pass through his intestinal tract, contact your veterinarian. Waiting until your pet starts to vomit will make removal of the foreign material more difficult and costly.


 

The Dangers of Bones

 

You have finally succeeded in teaching your dog not to beg. Dinner is now a pleasant meal for you and your family. As a reward, you think your dog might enjoy chewing on the leftover bones. After all, his distant cousin the wolf chews bones all the time and chewing bones promotes healthy teeth and gums, right? What can it hurt?

Actually, bones are not as healthy as you may think. Some dogs may never develop a problem associated with chewing bones but some may. And, some bone related problems can be very serious. With so many alternatives and little need for chewing real

 

bones, are the benefits worth the risks?

Potential Complications

Unfortunately, if you decide to give your pet a bone, or he finds one in the trash, he may be getting more than just a tasty treat. Bones do not break down easily. This means your pet may have to pass them through his stool. This often leads to a serious impaction and constipation, requiring a trip to the veterinarian. Bones can also be a choking hazard and can cause possible intestinal bleeding if the bone shards break off and tear the intestinal lining.

Types of Bone Problems

 

Thin bones, such as ribs, can get lodged in the throat or even the roof of the mouth. In one case, a Doberman suffered several days with a rib bone lodged in the roof of his mouth. By that time, the bone had cause significant tissue damage to the roof of the mouth and surrounding gums.

Round steak bones also pose a threat because they can get wedged around the lower jaw. Veterinarians often must use bolt cutters or even hacksaws to remove them, which is extremely uncomfortable for the dog and may require sedation.

Chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous. They are more fragile and splinter easily. Splintered bones can cause perforation of the mouth, throat, intestines and colon, causing internal trauma.

What to Watch For

• Struggling to breathe

• Straining to go to the bathroom

• Bloody diarrhea

• Pawing at the mouth

• Lack of appetite

• Vomiting

Alternatives

The safest thing to do is to only give "bones" that have been designed for dogs to chew on. This can include Nylabones© which tend to be relatively indestructible and are often flavored. Another alternative is to offer him acceptable chew toys. Rawhide toys, given in moderation, are fun to chew, for instance. Again, be careful how often you offer a rawhide toy because pieces can break off and cause constipation.



 

Diabetes in Dogs


Diabetes mellitus (DM) is a chronic condition in which a deficiency of the hormone insulin impairs the body's ability to metabolize sugar. It is one of the most common endocrine (hormonal) diseases of dogs.

There are two types of diabetes mellitus in dogs. Type I DM occurs when the body does not produce enough insulin. This can be the result of destruction of the cells in the pancreas that normally produce insulin. This form does not produce enough insulin and requires insulin injections to control the disease. Type II DM occurs when enough insulin is produced but something interferes with its ability to be utilized by the body. Dogs nearly always (99%) have the type I variety.

Diabetes mellitus usually affects middle-aged to older dogs of either sex, however it is most common in female dogs (twice as common in females as in males). The peak age seen in dogs is 7 to 9 years. Juvenile-onset diabetes may occur in dogs less than 1 year of age. . Any breed can be affected. Breeds at increased risk for diabetes mellitus include the Australian terrier, Samoyed, Schnauzer (miniature and standard), Bichon frise, Cairn terrier, Keeshond, Spitz, Fox terrier and the Poodle (miniature and standard).

Diabetes mellitus leads to an inability of the tissue to utilize glucose. Disease occurs from high blood sugar levels, inadequate delivery of sugar to the tissues and changes in the body metabolism.

Risk factors for diabetes mellitus include obesity, recurring pancreatitis, Cushing's disease, and drugs such as glucocorticoids and progestagens that antagonize insulin.

What to Watch For

• Increased thirst

• Increased frequency of urination

• Weight loss despite a good appetite

• Sudden blindness

• Lethargy

• Poor body condition



 

Diabetic Ketoacidosis (DKA) in Dogs



Diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA), the most severe form of Diabetes Mellitus, results in severe changes in blood chemicals including imbalances in small, simple chemicals known as electrolytes.

Diabetes mellitus (DM) is a chronic condition in which a deficiency of the hormone insulin impairs the body's ability to metabolize sugar. It is one of the most common endocrine (hormonal) diseases of dogs. For more information on the basics of diabetes, go to Diabetes mellitus in dogs DKA is a life-threatening condition caused by diabetes mellitus resulting from insulin deficiency that leads to excess production of ketoacids by the liver. Subsequent changes in the blood result that includes metabolic acidosis, electrolyte abnormalities producing severe signs of systemic illness.

DKA condition can occur in pets with new diabetes or in current diabetics that decompensate. Secondary diseases and/or infections can cause diabetics to decompensate and develop DKA.

What to Watch For

Signs associated with DKA depend on the individual pet and the length of time they have been ill. Signs may consist of the classic signs of diabetes including:

• Increased thirst


• Increased frequency of urination

• Weight loss despite a good appetite

• Sudden blindness

Additional signs of DKA include:

• Lethargy

• Vomiting

• Weakness

• Dehydration

• Some pets will have a strong smell of acetone from their breath



 

How can I help recede the quick in my dog's nails?

Besides frequent nail trims, is there anything that can be used to force/help a quick recede in a dogs nail that is over grown? Or is the only other way to get an over grown nail short enough to be comfortable for the dog walking is to cut pass the quick?

how to help recede the quick in a dogs nail that is overgrown. The only way I know is to trim them once a week. Cut them frequently.


 

What can I do about my dogs marking behavior?


I have a 2-year old male, very mellow, non-aggressive neutered yellow lab who is house trained and does not mark in our house or the home of friends with female dogs (so far). However, he marks if there is or was a male dog in the house, and thus is not welcome in friends home, which eliminates overnight visits with him because we don't know how he will behave. Is there anything we can do?


You wrote that you 2-year-old neutered male lab will "mark" territory where other male dogs are or have been. Most commonly the treatment for urine marking evolve around neutering (already done in your dog), dominance control programs (it may be worth considering this), anxiety-reducing measures, and thorough clean up are ineffective. Pharmacological intervention may be the last resort.


 

My cat is anemic and licking rocks – what can I do?


A couple of weeks before Christmas, Cleo began licking rocks and clay pots but seemed to be fine otherwise. We were away for several days over Christmas but had a pet sitter stop by once or twice a day to feed and water Cleo. Upon returning, Cleo would not get out of his bed unless I picked him up. He was very listless - no his playful, curious self. He also began eating the clay cat litter. I took him to the vet who immediately noticed he was pale. She kept him and ran a CBC (said it came back a 6) and a chem profile. She suspected that Cleo had ingested some rat poison (we don't have any around, but it's possible a neighbor might) and decided a blood transfusion was necessary. Cleo was in the hospital from Tuesday to Friday over New Years. He received antibiotic and steroid injections while there. He was sent home with Amoxi drops which he finished 3 days ago and Prednisone, which he is now taking every other day. Cleo is still pale and listless and still licking the rocks and trying to eat the clay cat litter, which I finally replaced with corncob litter. I called the vet 6 days ago to ask if Cleo shouldn't be doing better by now but she told me it might possibly take up to 2 months for his body to get his blood built back up. I asked if there was anything else we should be doing for him and was told no. I guess I just need some assurance that we are doing what is necessary and that it will take a few weeks for Cleo to recover.

You wrote that your indoor-outdoor cat Cleo was licking clay and litter then became anemic. He received a blood transfusion and antibiotics and steroids but is still quite lethargic and pale.

I would expect Cleo to be doing A LOT better by now. It is true that it can take weeks to months for the blood count to be back to normal but I'd still expect to your cat to be doing pretty good now.

The question is – why was Cleo anemic? Is it from rat poison (if so – he should be on a special vitamin K1 antidote medication for the 2 to 4 weeks). Or is it because of an infectious disease (such as feline aids or feline leukemia) or because of an infectious disease (such as feline infectious anemia)?